Appalachian Trail SOBO Day 7 – I have been dreaming of that deli


  • 2nd August 2023

  • Stealth Site - Route 15 / Monson (mile 114.7)

  • Daily miles: 16.8

  • Total miles: 120 


I had a nice night despite thinking it was going to be a bit creepy. To be honest anything could have come up to my tent and I wouldn’t have known, I was in such a deep sleep. 

I got up early, woken by my alarm, and I was hiking by 05:40; I needed to get an early start to give myself the best chance of getting to Monson at a reasonable time. 

a selfie of puff puff on the appalachian trail

The trees are more in focus than my face which is probably for the best. Still a lot of fluid pooling around my eyes.

I am amazed every morning at how fine my feet feel after being in so much pain the night before, how I go from feeling like I will never be able to walk again to just walking again. 

Yesterday I though “How am I day 6 ALREADY?” and by the end of the day I thought “How are we ONLY on day 6?!”.

looking through the tree canopy to see blue sky

It’s a good day when you can see blue sky through the trees

dark dense forest at first light

So many trees!

After just 10 minutes of hiking I came to Barren Ledges which was where I was trying to get to last night but couldn’t make it. The sunset would have been great but as it was I got a pretty sweet sunrise. I would have had to hike down the trail a bit to find somewhere to camp and I’m glad I didn’t have to go that because I wouldn’t have had it in me. 

hiker puff puff standing on a rocky outcrop called barren ledges. she is looking out across a lake at sunrise

Sunrise on Barren Ledges

a hiker jumping on a rock and looking joyful with the sunrise behind her and a big lake and lots of trees in the background

Enjoying being there on such a beautiful morning

sunrise behind a tree

Sunrise

I was mostly on a singular mission today; to get to Monson and and get a sandwich at the deli which I remember being amazing from last time. I once again spoke to some nice people and some people didn’t speak and were focused heavily on getting to Katahdin, which I understand totally. 

I came to a 100 miles sign for south bounders and then the trail went a bit squiffy. I couldn’t find where it went and eventually I figured it had to cross the river. I wanted to give my feet the best chance today so I took my socks off and took the insoles out – because they absorb a lot of water – and I crossed the river and bushwhacked until I could find the trail on the other side. That was a bit annoying – mostly because there must have been a better way across and I couldn’t find it – and it was quite time consuming.

Rocks laid out like stepping stones on the Appalachian Trail

Stepping stones

100 miles complete

Looking across a river to a white blaze on the tree on the opposite side

River crossing, time for wet feet

Holding a small pot of Vaseline next to a bare foot which is shiny from being covered in Vaseline

TRAIL TIP: covering your feet in vaseline helps when your feet are wet all day

The rest of the day was a series of ups and downs, none of them too significant but all of them slow because it was rocky and rooty. The nicest bits of the day were when I got to the tops of the climbs and I could walk along rock slab for a bit.

River crossing on the Appalachian trail

A nice rock hop to cross this one

I had to cross the railway line which is an active freight line. You don’t want to be there when a train is going by because it takes about 6 minutes for the train to pass. These things are long! 

A view of railway tracks disappearing into the distance

The first of many times I will cross the train tracks

A bright green caterpillar travelling across dead leaves

Caterpillar

It was hotter and more humid than it had been for a while. 

I had to have a nature poo in the morning and I had to have ANOTHER one in the afternoon, even though I was trying really hard to hold it until town, I just couldn’t. Plus I ran out of toilet paper so I had to use leaves to pre wipe and then my last 2 squares of toilet paper to finish. Awful. 

I came to another river crossing; again socks off and insoles out. 

A river crossing on the Appalachian trail

Another wet crossing

And shortly after ANOTHER river crossing. None of the 3 had been crossable on rocks. I didn’t remember there being this many crossings in 2018. Maybe they were drier… 

Even though my feet weren’t soaked they were still damp and they were starting to get really really sore again. I slogged my way up every climb, having to stop and rest multiple times. 

A wide river littered with rocks

The third wet crossing of the day

Altra lone peak 7 shoes

Eternally wet shoes

An old trail sign from 1949 nailed to a tree

Trail sign from 1949

Slanted slab rock

A view across the trees with little fluffy clouds in the sky

Little fluffy clouds over the mountains

I saw my first person going south, an older man who looked like he could be in his 80s. He had 2 headphones in, no poles so he was wobbling all over the place, his pack didn’t fit right and was swinging from side to side and the effort of every big step up he took caused him to fart. I shouted 5 times before he heard me and I was literally right behind him. This is why you shouldn’t have both earphones in, you have no awareness of your surroundings. I could have been a bear!

a man hiking on the appalachian trail in maine

He had no idea I was behind him

tree roots covering a large slab of rock

This time the tree roots are quite helpful

I finally reached the end of the 100 mile wilderness and walked the last bit of trail to the road crossing where I stuck out my thumb to get to Monson. I feared it was going to be a difficult hitch, I was staring right into the sun a it was absolutely roasting stood on the road. I was probably there about 3 minutes and about 10 cars drove by, one slowed down but it was too late to stop as she had missed the turning, and thoughts quickly turned to “I’m never going to get a hitch to town” which always kick in after about 3 minutes! 

Then a truck pulled in which had just come from the direction of town and asked me if I was trying to get to Monson. Yes! He was an AT hiker from 2004 and he said he would take me back into town. Result! 

He dropped me right at the door of the hostel and there were tonnes of hikers there. I went to the store where they gave me a can of Ginger Ale which I drank in about 2 gulps, and showed me around. It’s a great set up here at Shaw’s. 

multiple tents pitched in front of Shaws hostel in monson

Shaw’s hiker hostel in Monson

Before I started hiking a trail friend of mine, Heaps, told me 3 of her friends were also hiking the AT south bound this year and to look out for them. I saw one of them so I went over to talk to her, and she was talking to a NOBO I met on trail a few days ago. Her name was Toe and we bonded over being south bounders and having a mutual friend – she already told me that I have a bed at her house in Georgia and I’m invited for thanksgiving 

a selfie of puff puff and toe

Meeting Toe for the first time

One of her friends, Cal, started with her and has gone on ahead, and her other friend, May Queen, started after her and Toe is waiting for her to catch up.

Now I’m conflicted; I could have a trail group. A trail family would be nice, but do I give up my 100 day goal for that? Can I even keep up with all these youngsters! 😂

We chatted for a while and then I went to the shop to get a deli sandwich which I had been fantasising about for days. I got a “Trail Blazer” and took it back to the hostel. Turkey, bacon, Swiss cheese, lettuce, avocado and sriracha Mayo. So. Good. I inhaled it. And a chocolate milk. I gave my pickle away, Americans love pickles.   

the outside of Monson general store

Monson General Store and Deli

an empty bottle of chocolate milk lying on grass

Nothing better than chocolate milk when hiking

Next I threw in my laundry while there was an opening. I used as much detergent as I possibly could because my socks were in there and everything I had stank so bad. 

Then a shower and the shower stuff they had in there was perfect, it all smelt so nice. I didn’t need loaner clothes as I wore my long sleep legs and my Sambob fleece - I’ve never had so many compliments on a piece of clothing! 

A bunch of hikers were coming up to talk to me having passed me on the trail, most remembered who I was because of my voice / accent, and I struggled to remember who a lot of them were but made the connections eventually. Now I don’t pretend anymore, I just say “where did I see you?” and it makes things a whole lot easier! 

The nice couple who helped me early on at that shelter – where it was raining and my tent got chewed by a mouse – were there and it was lovely to see them again. 

The hostel had made a big lasagne, with salad and garlic bread, so that was a nice and unexpected treat. 

I managed to get a post up on Instagram and Facebook to let people know I was still alive, but I got absolutely nothing else done because people were talking to me all the time! Honestly it all felt a bit overwhelming after spending so much time alone and not talking to people properly for a few days. And the world of social media too; there is too much to catch up on. 

It’s 10pm and I’m still writing. 

I’m struggling to think about the next section so I’ll do that in the morning. It won’t be an early start tomorrow. 


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Appalachian Trail SOBO Day 8 - I’m prepared to get naked

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Appalachian Trail SOBO Day 6 – I don’t remember it being this hard!